Mahabalipuram

My next stop was Chennai. I only had one full day here before moving onto Madurai, and I had decided to visit Mahabalipuram, now called Mamallapuram.

It was about 60km from where I was staying, but feeling adventurous, I had decided to further experience the precarious buses of India. Walking from my hostel, I quickly took my first bus. It was an intercity bus, and at 7am it was bursting its seams. People crowded in and often had to wriggle through entire groups of people, who stood obstinately as if claiming that section of the bus as their own, just to exit the vehicle.

I eventually reached the bus station and I boarded my second bus which would take me from Chennai to Mahabalipuram. Hoping I had the right ride, knowing that I could really never be sure, I stepped onto the bus, and I thankfully enjoyed a two hour journey first through the burgeoning streets of Chennai, and then across the East Coast road, which hugged the ocean beside it, until it reached Mahabalipuram.

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Krishna’s Butterball

It is one of India’s oldest landmarks, and features an impressive array of intricate carvings and magnanimous sculptures thought to have their origins in the 7th century. It is home to the iconic Shore Temple, and the five Rathas. It holds the wonderfully named Krishna’s Butterball, and the enchanting depiction of Arjuna’s Penance.

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Arjuna and Shiva

On their own, any of these works are impressive, yet together they create a truly magical place, Mahabalipuram.

Arjuna’s Penance
The Shore Temple
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The Five Rathas

After taking some time to find my bus back, I was swiftly on my way home. I had been worrying about how I was going to get to Mahabalipuram before the trip. I was worried I would not be able to find the buses, or that for whatever reason I would not be able to get there. But, yet again, I realised how needless my worry was. I realised that I did not need to control every aspect of my trip. Things just seem to work, and I think for the first time on my trip, I was enjoying letting them do so.

Madurai, Mandirs, and Masala Dosa

Madurai. My Rough Guide to India describes it as the Athens of the East. Steeped in India’s history, Madurai has been for many thousands of years, the spiritual capital of the South. Life revolves around the Menaakshi Temple, complete with four majestic towers, boasting a vivid spectrum of colours that are made even brighter by the ever shining sun. These designs can be seen throughout the South, even if that little bit grander here. Madurai is also said to be the final place where Rāma amassed his army before heading to Lānka.

Meenakshi Temple

I had again been worried about visiting the main temple. My trip to Viswanath in Varanasi earlier although illuminating, was overwhelming, and I wondered if Madurai would be similar. However, as time went on my worrying seemed to dissolve into the air around me, and by the time I was setting off to see the temple, I was only looking forward to it. Furthermore, South India is a wonderful place to visit. The hotter climate seems to warm everything up, including the kindness of those in the area. I found it incredible how stark the difference was between the two parts of India.

In the South, the mandirs were different, the people friendlier and more relaxed, clothes were different, the food was different, even the language was different. In fact, arguably the only thing that was the same was the currency. I was surprised every time I was asked to pay in rupees.

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Inside Meenakshi

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The outer beauty of the temple was matched only, and in some places superseded, by its inner mystique. Recalling it was known as ‘the Athens of the East’ I did strangely feel transported upon entering the heart of the temple, whose overall structure and customs probably have not changed for as long as it has been standing. The inner corridors were filled with a dim glow and musky air, offset only by the colours that illuminated the walls and the ceilings.

After a humbling darshan, I continued to explore the maze of pillars and corridors, that held in them an air of timelessness. The brightness of the sun struck my eyes as I exited the heart of the temple, and turning around to appreciate the wonder before me, I again felt only grateful to be doing what I was.

Before heading back, I spent the rest of the day visiting other Mandirs dotted around Madurai, which although may not have had the same grandeur were certainly no less wonderous.