Madurai, Mandirs, and Masala Dosa

Madurai. My Rough Guide to India describes it as the Athens of the East. Steeped in India’s history, Madurai has been for many thousands of years, the spiritual capital of the South. Life revolves around the Menaakshi Temple, complete with four majestic towers, boasting a vivid spectrum of colours that are made even brighter by the ever shining sun. These designs can be seen throughout the South, even if that little bit grander here. Madurai is also said to be the final place where Rāma amassed his army before heading to Lānka.

I had again been worried about visiting the main temple. My trip to Viswanath in Varanasi earlier although illuminating, was overwhelming, and I wondered if Madurai would be similar. However, as time went on my worrying seemed to dissolve into the air around me, and by the time I was setting off to see the temple, I was only looking forward to it. Furthermore, South India is a wonderful place to visit. The hotter climate seems to warm everything up, including the kindness of those in the area. I found it incredible how stark the difference was between the two parts of India.

In the South, the mandirs were different, the people friendlier and more relaxed, clothes were different, the food was different, even the language was different. In fact, arguably the only thing that was the same was the currency. I was surprised every time I was asked to pay in rupees.

The outer beauty of the temple was matched only, and in some places superseded, by its inner mystique. Recalling it was known as ‘the Athens of the East’ I did strangely feel transported upon entering the heart of the temple, whose overall structure and customs probably have not changed for as long as it has been standing. The inner corridors were filled with a dim glow and musky air, offset only by the colours that illuminated the walls and the ceilings.

After a humbling darshan, I continued to explore the maze of pillars and corridors, that held in them an air of timelessness. The brightness of the sun struck my eyes as I exited the heart of the temple, and turning around to appreciate the wonder before me, I again felt only grateful to be doing what I was.

Before heading back, I spent the rest of the day visiting other Mandirs dotted around Madurai, which although may not have had the same grandeur were certainly no less wonderous.