March 2017 – Page 2 – The Trail of Rama

March 20, 2017December 1, 2020

My last day in Nasik

My train was at 11am that morning, which gave me a few hours before to get to the Hanuman Mandir, located just in front of Anjanaya Hill, named after Hanuman’s mother.

Mangesh picked me up and took me on a beautiful drive to the temple, where I again found myself surrounded by the mountains, the sun and blue skies.

We arrived in the quiet. It was away from the built up areas of Nasik, and climbing up the stairs I could already tell I was going to enjoy the space inside.

I walked in, rang the bell above my head, and looked ahead to see an enourmous statue of Hanuman, which was at least four or five metres tall. Hanuman was painted in an orange so vibrant it seemed to fill the whole room with colour. It was still early in the morning so the sun shone on Hanuman through the gateway to the temple and brought even more life to the space. All of this and the Hanuman Chalisa that was playing in the background created an environment that only places dedicated to Hanuman can.

I descended the stairs, glad I had been brought to such a place.

The next stop was meant to be the station, but checking the train timing on my phone, I realised it was going to be late. I am still blown away that via my phone, I can check the location of any train at any time of the day throughout India and find its location with an impressive level of accuracy.

Mangesh laughed and told me that sometimes train delays can be a blessing in disguise, and with the extra time on our hands, he took me to eat. It was a large outdoor restaurant that served only one dish and one dessert. Misal Pav, local to Maharashtra, and Jalebi, fried in gur. As you can probably imagine for a place that seems to thrive serving only a few dishes, the meal was excellent, and if you have been reading my blogs or if you know me, you will by now know that if I have good food I am happy.

In this frame of mind, I was taken to the station by Mangesh and I thanked him for looking after me as he had. It was wonderful meeting him.

That feeling that my visit to Nasik was missing something, disappeared, and feeling fulfilled, I boarded my train to Mumbai.

March 22, 2017December 1, 2020

Mumbai

I was looking forward to my stay in Mumbai. It is India’s most populated city, playing host to around 18 million people. However, it is a metropolis that is also rooted in history, with influences still visible today both from within India from the likes of the Mauryas and the Chalukyas, and also from outside of India, most commonly from the Portuguese and the British. It is in many ways, a city of many worlds.

Furthermore I was looking forward to staying with family in Mumbai. After being picked up from the station I was taken to their apartment. It is funny that even though it is a place I have never been to, I know when I am with family and I cannot help but feel at home. Thank you Mamaji, Mamiji, Avishi and Anika for looking after me so well.

This part of my trip was not associated with Rama, but was a chance for me just to explore Mumbai. My first day was spent venturing around south Mumbai and whether it was mansions, mandirs, museums or monuments, I saw a great deal. Driving through and seeing Mumbai made me realise how diverse it really was. One minute I found myself passing tower blocks worth billions, and other times through slums.

My mind feasted on places such as the Gateway of India, a piece of living history, and my eyes on the expansive sea.

Mani Bhavan – Gandi’s residence whilst in Mumbai

At one point we were driving through a ‘silent zone’ which basically means car horns are not allowed to be used. I think it was the first time during my trip that I had been in a vehicle, and had not heard any noise. It felt strange, as though through the windscreen I was watching a film at the point where the sound is cut. In those few moments, everything seemed slow and surreal, and I was sitting, waiting for the second that the noise would suddenly return, bringing life back to its normal speed.

However, in Mumbai, some of my favourite times were just staying at home, enjoying the company of family, or playing hide and seek in the gardens with Avishi and Anika. With all of the travelling I had been doing it was wonderful just to slow down for those few days.

March 23, 2017December 1, 2020

The Elephanta Caves

The next day I had decided to explore Elephanta Island. Six miles from Mumbai, it is full of caves that are believed to date back to the 8th century. Setting off from the Gateway of India by boat and looking back, I could not help but feel struck by the historical significance of the area. The last British troops to leave India had walked out through the Gateway, before boarding the ships and sailing back. The Gateway would have been the last part of India they saw. Looking back I could not help but wonder what they thought as they left. It was an event that would mark the start of a new era for both the British and for India.

The caves themselves were impressive, hosting a range of icons dedicated to Shiva. I thought I may as well have a guide just so I would know a little bit more about the place I was seeing. Very soon a guide, probably seeing me try to eavesdrop on the guides of other around me, approached me. We agreed a price and I had myself a guide.

He was keen to remind me that the statues were regularly used for target practice by the Portuguese, which was either his favourite fact or the only one he knew as he referred to it a great number of times without a lot else. I decided to politely leave him half way through, realising he actually didn’t know anything more than was written on the signs on the way in to the caves. He told me to ask him questions, and the ones I did ask, such as why this spot was chosen or why certain statues were the way they were, were met with the reply: ‘The caves are very old, how can I know such things.’

I guess sometimes it happens I told myself, not regretting I had tried to get a guide, just enjoying the irony of the one I had ended up with.

The rest of my stay was spent relaxing, eating wonderful food and enjoying the company of those around me.

I had seen so many different worlds in Mumbai, and I had a feeling my next destination would again be a completely different world altogether, as I was off to the beaches of Goa.

March 25, 2017December 1, 2020

Goa

I was only in Goa for two nights before moving on to Hampi, and so not wanting to venture too far from the airport and train station which were both in Vasco de Gama, I decided to stay here. The city was named after the Portuguese explorer who in 1498 reached India by sea, the first European to do so. The range of catholic churches in the area bear witness to the Portuguese influence in the area.

My accommodation was only a 10 minute drive from the airport, and a 10 minute walk from the closest beach, Bogmalo. Walking onto the beach for the first time I could not help but smile. It was lined with restaurants serving delicious food, and sitting down to eat I was able to watch the sun set over the ocean, which really was a beautiful sight. I spent my few days here simply relaxing, and aside from being chased by wild dogs on my way out of Goa, I really did enjoy myself.

However, sitting on the beach, even though I had everything I thought I could need in the moment, I felt as though I was missing something. I realised that whilst travelling alone is rewarding in many ways, there are some moments that you only want to share with those closest to you. I realised that while I was not really missing home, I was missing those closest to me and all I wanted to do was to share these wonderful moments I was having with them.

Even Rama in his exile had Sita and Lakshmana with him, and it reminded me how important those closest to you are.

Grateful to have had this insight, I brushed away the sand from between my toes, knowing full well that I would be finding clumps of it in my bag for the next few weeks, and boarded my train to Hampi.

March 27, 2017December 1, 2020

Rāma in Kishkinda

Rāma was so full of sorrow and so full of anger when he realised Sita had been taken. He told Lakshmana that with his anger he would destroy all that existed in the universe, as if he were himself the God of death. Rāma lamented that he had lived his life according to the dictates of dharma, and that he had been only noble. Yet he had lost his Kingdom, his family, his father, and now his Sita. He told Lakshmana that his gentleness had been mistaken for weakness, and that this had brought him only pain. Rāma without Sita, with all of his anger was ready to destroy the universe itself.

Lakshmana spoke gently to Rāma,

‘You should not abandon your nature, now that you have fallen prey to anger’. He said.

‘As loveliness dwells in the moon, brilliance in the sun, movement in the wind and forbearance in the earth, all these ever invariably dwell in you.’

He then sat beside his older brother and lovingly pressed his feet.

‘If you are not able to endure this suffering, what other man can bear it?’

‘What living beings do calamities not visit?

Reminding him that fate cannot be overcome, and that if anyone could bear these hardships it was Rāma. He calmed his brother, telling him that even the Gods go through pain and loss, and if they cannot avoid fate, then how can we as humans hope to.

Rāma, consoled by Lakshmana, regained his composure,

‘What shall we do, O Lakshmana?’

Overcoming his dejection, Rāma with his loving brother Lakshmana began their search for Sita. They found the dying Jatāyu, and Rāma filled with grief at the sight of his fallen friend ‘sank down on the earth’. In his last moments Jatāyu told them what had happened, and so Rāma and Lakshmana began marching south, to find Ravana and Sita.

On their way they encountered the demon Kabandha who wondered the forest. Killing him, and thus freeing him from his curse, he was able to regain his old form. He told Rāma and Lakshmana that to succeed in their task they would need an ally. If they headed towards the Kingdom of Kishkinda, they would find a monkey by the name of Sugriva, and he would help them to find Sita.

Kishkinda is thought to be modern day Hampi, and was my next destination.

March 30, 2017December 1, 2020

Hampi

I had been looking forward to Hampi from the very start of my trip, despite knowing very little about it. However, the fact that it marked the location where Rama met Hanuman meant I knew it was going to be a wonderful experience, and I was not in any way disappointed.

The first thing that struck me as I leaned out of the train door approaching the station at Hampi was the fierce heat. Looking out, I observed all around me. The immense greenery of the fields, was matched only by the orange glow of the air, so bright was the sun.

It was probably the first time I felt as though I was now really in South India. Hindi was no longer spoken, and the signs were no longer in Hindi, so the little I had learned along the way was now useless. Having to rely on only my English, I left the train and made my way towards Hampi. I had arrived in the late afternoon, and with sunset not far away, I decided to spend my first day there just wondering around Hampi. I was immediately struck by its immense beauty. Mountains and boulders pervaded the landscape. The story goes that the Vanara Army, or the monkey army of Kishkinda, would throw these incredible rocks from the tops of the mountains to show off their strength.

Watching the sunset over the dried up river, and behind the mountains, I could not help but look forward to my days ahead.

March 30, 2017December 1, 2020

A bicycle ride along the Trail of Rama Part I

My first morning in Hampi was probably my favourite to date. When deciding how to get around, the owner of the guest house where I was staying recommended that I hire a bicycle for the day, and at 100 rupees, I could not argue with it.

After crossing up the dried up river with my bike, scrambling across the rocks, which was not as easy as I would have liked, my first stop was Lake Pampa.

It was at this lake whose ‘soul enchanting excellences are famed throughout the world’, that Rāma and Lakshmana found the ashram of Shabari, another who refused her place in heaven, so she could meet Rama.

However, it was about 4 km from where I was staying, and I knew there was no way I would have enjoyed the day as much as I did if it were not for my bike. It removed my dependence on annoying rickshaw drivers, and enabled me to actually cover a reasonable distance. It had been years since I had ridden a bike, and the freedom it gave me was wonderful.

I met a Sadhu at the body of water marking Lake Pampa, and asked him where I should visit. He told me that there was a Durga Mandir I could see, briefly mentioning something about Vali, the language barrier again proving a problem. He told me I could visit Anjanaya Hill and Rishyamookh hill which were all on this side of the river. Again, appreciating that sometimes I did not need to make a plan before doing something, as things often turned out okay, I set off to see the other sites.

I went off in search of the Durga Mandir. I cycled, and cycled, and cycled without managing to find it, even though it was only meant to be 2km away. Not realising how far I had travelled, I stumbled across a small village and just enjoying the bike ride, I thought I would go and investigate, before turning around and heading back.

Everywhere I went I found traces of the Ramayana. Whether it was statues and temples, or simply Rama’s name written across the rocks of Hampi.

Cycling through I reached the end of the path that existed, and found myself at what seemed like an abandoned temple. It was beautiful and on the banks of the river, with a small photo of Hanuman placed at the entrance. Intrigued I went in, had a wonder around the stone structure and left. I made a note of the name, just in case it came up anywhere and started cycling back. It was called Anegundi.

Cycling back I soon found the Durga Mandir. Realising I had not been able to see it before as it was hiding on the other side of a hill, I began my ascent. Funnily enough, I met the same Sadhu there as I had at Lake Pampa and after a brief conversation, I went to the Durga mandir.

I pushed my bike up the unrelenting hill, its one gear and my lack of stamina proving to make cycling up it out of the question, and visited the temple. I then asked about Vāli. No words were given in reply, and I was simply pointed in a direction. Intrigued, I followed and continued walking.

I walked and walked, and finally found arrows painted on the surrounding rocks, which guided me to where I was going. I climbed boulders and squeezed my way through caves until I reached what I thought was my destination.

I had without knowing, made it to the top of the hill, and I was able to see Hampi in all its glory before my eyes. Monkeys kept me company as I was blown away by all before me.

However, I soon realised that the arrows had not stopped. I was at this point becoming nervous. I had walked a long way, across a number of obstacles that were not easy to cross. Spurred on, however, by the feeling that I was close, I descended a few ladders that were merged into the rocks.

What I found was mesmerising…