My first morning in Hampi was probably my favourite to date. When deciding how to get around, the owner of the guest house where I was staying recommended that I hire a bicycle for the day, and at 100 rupees, I could not argue with it.
After crossing up the dried up river with my bike, scrambling across the rocks, which was not as easy as I would have liked, my first stop was Lake Pampa.
It was at this lake whose ‘soul enchanting excellences are famed throughout the world’, that Rāma and Lakshmana found the ashram of Shabari, another who refused her place in heaven, so she could meet Rama.
However, it was about 4 km from where I was staying, and I knew there was no way I would have enjoyed the day as much as I did if it were not for my bike. It removed my dependence on annoying rickshaw drivers, and enabled me to actually cover a reasonable distance. It had been years since I had ridden a bike, and the freedom it gave me was wonderful.
I met a Sadhu at the body of water marking Lake Pampa, and asked him where I should visit. He told me that there was a Durga Mandir I could see, briefly mentioning something about Vali, the language barrier again proving a problem. He told me I could visit Anjanaya Hill and Rishyamookh hill which were all on this side of the river. Again, appreciating that sometimes I did not need to make a plan before doing something, as things often turned out okay, I set off to see the other sites.
I went off in search of the Durga Mandir. I cycled, and cycled, and cycled without managing to find it, even though it was only meant to be 2km away. Not realising how far I had travelled, I stumbled across a small village and just enjoying the bike ride, I thought I would go and investigate, before turning around and heading back.
Everywhere I went I found traces of the Ramayana. Whether it was statues and temples, or simply Rama’s name written across the rocks of Hampi.
Cycling through I reached the end of the path that existed, and found myself at what seemed like an abandoned temple. It was beautiful and on the banks of the river, with a small photo of Hanuman placed at the entrance. Intrigued I went in, had a wonder around the stone structure and left. I made a note of the name, just in case it came up anywhere and started cycling back. It was called Anegundi.
Cycling back I soon found the Durga Mandir. Realising I had not been able to see it before as it was hiding on the other side of a hill, I began my ascent. Funnily enough, I met the same Sadhu there as I had at Lake Pampa and after a brief conversation, I went to the Durga mandir.
I pushed my bike up the unrelenting hill, its one gear and my lack of stamina proving to make cycling up it out of the question, and visited the temple. I then asked about Vāli. No words were given in reply, and I was simply pointed in a direction. Intrigued, I followed and continued walking.
I walked and walked, and finally found arrows painted on the surrounding rocks, which guided me to where I was going. I climbed boulders and squeezed my way through caves until I reached what I thought was my destination.
I had without knowing, made it to the top of the hill, and I was able to see Hampi in all its glory before my eyes. Monkeys kept me company as I was blown away by all before me.
However, I soon realised that the arrows had not stopped. I was at this point becoming nervous. I had walked a long way, across a number of obstacles that were not easy to cross. Spurred on, however, by the feeling that I was close, I descended a few ladders that were merged into the rocks.
What I found was mesmerising…
Agree the best part- exploring unknown.