Nasik

After a 12 hour train journey to Nasik, where I was fortunate to sit with a wonderful family who fed me all the way, I arrived in the city, the location where one of the darkest chapters of the Ramayana occurred.

A great many places in Nasik claim to be the location where certain events in the Ramayana happened, so I figured if I visited all of them, I might, with some luck, stumble upon the right ones.

I started off walking into Naroshankar Mandir, mistaking it for somewhere else. It was quiet so I decided to sit down inside. I chose a small perch as my seat, but after I had sat down I heard a rustleing. Again it continued, and worrying that I had sat near some mice, I leapt up. I checked and nothing was there. Just as I began to wonder what it was, two birds flew out from a nest above my head. In my worry I had assumed I was sitting by mice, without any thought that it could be birds. I guess worrying stopped me from seeing things as they were.

 

Next I visited the Kalaram Mandir. Famed as it houses icons of Rama, Sita and Lakshmana in only black, hence its name, the Mandir is one of the most visited in Nasik. Unable to take photos due to restrictions, I walked in, wondering what the place marking such dark events would have in store for me. I was immediately struck by its sombre feel. It’s quiet was piercing, and it is strangely enough the first place on my trip that triggered feelings of pain as I sat down in the Mandir.

I moved on to Sita Gupha, supposedly the cave where Lakshmana took Sita, while Rama fought the 14,000 demons. Its location is marked with five banyan trees, said to give the area Panchavati its name.

I was less sure whether these trees really were around at the time or whether it was that exact cave that housed Sita, but trying to immerse myself in the story, I transported myself to the Ramayana, imaging all the events occuring as the story has been told.

I proceeded to see a small icon of Ravana at the spot where he was said to have taken Sita. Reading the Ramayana as frequently as I have been and doing the Trail meant I could not help but feel a shiver down my spine as I did. I laughed to myself at how real the story felt in that moment.

Continuing, I reached Tapovan, a word made up from two roots, tapas and vana, or spiritual practice and forest. It was said that this was the spot where Lakshmana did his tapas. Perhaps sensing his devotion, this space granted me a comfort that the others did not.

My first day in Nasik was a strange one. I had thought that each place I visited would only grant me more satisfaction, as I became more familiar with travelling, and more involved in the Trail. But Nasik did not give me that initially. I was filled with those feelings that were with me in Ayodhya, an uneasiness.

However, I think if this trip has taught me anything, it is that these feelings may recur, and they may never fully disappear. But, I know I can deal with them in whatever form they take.

With this in mind, not wishing to sit in my room with only worry as my company, I ventured out to Ramkund. Another spot frequented by Rama, it is also the hub of the mela, whenever it is in Nasik. All around me I saw colour, the air was filled with laughter and the Kund with life. I sat listening to music, appreciating all the joy that everyone around me exuded. I very quickly forgot about anything I was going through. In fact, I may go as far as to say that those moments, just sitting by the water, were some of the happiest of this trip.

Fulfilled after watching the sunset, I purchased a pleasingly sized dairy milk, and ambled home after an eye-opening day.