A lunch with Sadhus in Sharabhanga’s Ashram

After leaving Chitrakoot and heading further into the Dandaka Forest, Rāma, Sītā and Lakshmana encountered the repulsive man-eating demon Virādha. The demon sought to kill the wandering trio and a vicious fight ensued. Through their prowess, Rāma and Lakshmana prevailed. As he was dying however, Virādha revealed that he had been cursed long ago by Kubera, and his curse would only be lifted after being killed by Rāma. After, he would regain his normal form, and go to paradise. Thanking Rāma for freeing him from his curse, Virādha, whose real name was Tumburu, allowed himself to be killed by Rāma and Lakshmana. Before his death, he told the brothers that they should head towards Sharabhanga’s Ashram, and so they did, moving through the forest ‘like the moon and the sun in the sky’.

Sharabhanga’s ashram is located about 50km away from Chitrakoot, and so I went to see it on my way to Satna, which I was reaching by taxi. Turning off the main road, we drove down an orange dirt track, one that reminded me that in India even the dirt has a colour and vibrancy about it. Driving further and further away from the noise that pervades the roads, we eventually ended up at the Ashram, which was accompanied by only a few stalls selling chai just outside, and calm.

Sharabhanga was a great sage. He had accumulated so much tapas that he was granted access to Brahmaloka, the abode of Brahma, attained only by those who have realised Brahman. The God Indra had come down to earth to take Sharabhanga to the heavens with him. However, Sharabhanga, knowing that Rāma would soon be reaching him, sent Indra away, so he could meet with him, such was his reverence of the Prince of Ayodhya. Rāma glimpsed the golden chariot of Indra. However, knowing that Rāma should not see him until after his purpose on earth, the killing of Ravana, had been fulfilled, Indra left again for the heavens. The ashram where this all happened was the place I was going to see.

I walked through the gates and was greeted by the rather alarming bark of a dog who seemed to be guarding the door. After some Sadhus quietened him down, I proceeded to the Ashram. As I walked in I saw a small mandir and I sat down with a few Sadhus who were intrigued by my presence. It seemed to be a place frequented only by locals. I have tried my best not to draw too much attention to myself, but everything about me seems to be giving me away.

In one of those conversations I am by now used to, with my broken Hindi, a great deal of gesturing and head-nodding, I told them that I was trying to follow the Trail of Rāma as in the Rāmāyana, at which point I showed them my book I was carrying with me. They all smiled, and told me to stay longer so I could have lunch with them.

My face beamed, realising how fortunate I was to be fed in such a place. I sat down on a straw mat with a few other Sadhus around me, and I was handed a thali of rice, daal, subzi and two roti, which were in places still lightly dusted with ash, as they had just been taken off the wooden fire. With only my hand I started eating, watched by those around me, who seemed to be pleasantly surprised that I could cope without cutlery. Like the space I was in, the food was divine. It was wonderful to just sit and eat, without the many distractions that I often think I need to keep me entertained.

Over lunch I was told about the events that happened in the Ashram, whilst also answering questions about how I found my trip, all in Hindi of course. I think that we all understood what the other was trying to say, but I can never be sure.

Finishing my food, I went to go and wash my plate, and for the first time during my trip my mind had wondered away from my bag I carry with me, containing my valubles. The stream was only a minute away, but, I told the Sadhu accompanying me I would just head back to get my bag, instinctively worrying about it. He looked at me with a stern face, but still with a smile in his eyes.

‘No tension!’ He said, as if being able to read my mind.

‘Free mind, no worry!’

I smiled, and enjoying letting go of my worry, I walked over to wash my plate. It was at this point I stopped and let out a slight grin, seeing how the plates I was eating off were washed. We took the outside of a coconut as a scrubber, dipped it in ash, and washed the plate, before rinsing in a small pool of seemingly still water. I laughed to myself and thought if I was going to get ill from anything in India, then an Ashram was the best place to do it. Luckily I have been fine.

After getting over this thought, I started washing my plate with cows wondering around behind me, in the sun, in the calm, and time itself seemed to stop. The only thing I thought about was the very thing I was doing in that moment. It was as if the ash I was using to clean the plate, took away my worries with it. Living in an ashram must at times be a wonderful thing.

Finishing cleaning and after conversing more with the Sadhus, who amongst other things asked me if I was married, I did my pranams and said my goodbyes.

Sharabhanga, after seeing Rāma, ascended to the abode of Brahma. After he left, other revered sages in the Ashram approached Rāma, and asked him for help. They informed Rāma that a great number of adharmi’s, those who do no act in accordance with duty, were killing sages throughout the forest, and they asked Rāma to protect them. Realising that his exile into the forest, was not the result of misfortune, but so that he could carry out this purpose, Rāma, without hesitation, agreed to find those committed to wrong, and to free the sages from their harm. The Prince of Ayodhya with his brother and his wife spent the next ten years fulfilling this purpose. They moved from hermitage to hermitage, staying in some places for many others, and others a single night. They philosophised with sages, practiced austerities, and fought off those demons in the forest who sought to harm them and sages around them. As this ten year period was up, Rāma one day felt a need to visit the Sage Agastya, just outside of Panchavatī in what is today Nasik. This was my next stop.

And so, with one last look behind me, appreciating what I knew had been a once in a lifetime experience, I thanked life and continued on the Trail of Rāma.