I spent the morning at Sati Anasūyā, the mandir dedicated to the Sage Atri and his wife Ansūyā. Ansūyā is famed because through her severe asceticism she made the Ganga flow, after a drought that had persisted for ten years, returning life to where it had once been.
She spoke with Sītā, and enamoured with her virtue, offered her a boon. But, Sītā content with the love of Rāma, told Anasūyā she had no desires. Anasūyā smiled, and offered Sītā flowers, before asking Rāma, Sītā and Lakshmana to spend the night at their ashram.
After visiting this mandir which was filled with scenes depicting the Rāmāyana, I ventured into Gupta Godavari.
The story goes that Godavari, the river in modern day Maharashtra, knew Rāma was going to be in Chitrakoot. Her desire to see him in her physical form was immense. But, she was unable to do so having to abide by the laws of nature. However, whilst the river herself could not be moved to Chitrakoot, her spirit could, and in this form she went to see Rama.
Upon seeing him, she felt blessed. But, there was also a painful sadness, knowing she was so close to Rāma, unable to take her true form. As this pain enveloped her, a tear fell from Godavari, and landed on Rama. This tear was to become Gupta Godavari. The story expresses that even the Laws of Nature can be transcended by unconditional love.
The caves were an adventure in themselves, with the water coming up to my knees and with rocks all around I was reminded of caves I had visited on school trips years ago. There was a mysterious feel to them, but maybe that was just the result of the dark and the sound of the trickling water I could pick out.
There were small shrines in each cave where people came to have pujas done for them, and are probably what draws many to Gupta Godavari. Feeling I had explored enough, I exited the caves before sitting under a nearby banyan tree for a while. After observing the monkeys that seem to always be playing with each other, and the people who always seem to laughing with each other, I moved on from Gupta Godavari, and left Chitrakoot.
In the Rāmāyana, there is a passage where Rāma describes to Sita the beauty of the hills of Chitrakoot. ‘Parts of this king of mountains shine brightly, some glittering like silver, some blood red, some sparkling like the foremost of gems.’ The plants on the mountain ‘in their thousands sparkle like flames of fire on the top of the mountain at night.’ ‘The beautiful river Mandākinī with its delightful banks, is a stream inhabited by swans and cranes, and rich in flowers, hemmed in with trees of various kinds growing on its banks and laden with flowers and fruits.’
Leaving Chitrakoot, I began to understand why Rāma could have happily left his kingdom behind, so long as he could live in Chitrakoot.
Enlightened.
Oh, thank you thank you again for all these memories. In the water in the cave, as you said, it is like passing in a stream , a very heavy man squashed Rolf against a wall and Rolf’s foot was punctured by a very sharp rock. Obviously all survived but it was a story. As Rolf reminds people, there are electrical cords hanging off the cave walls, as you walk along…
On coming out of the cave one time, Rolf put his hand in his pocket and a monkey bit him. The guards chased away the monkey. Then the monkey came after me; I had nothing, not even a pocket. They ‘own’ the place, no doubt.
Years later I write this and I’m smiling.
There is something so holy and amazing upon finally seeing ‘the goal’ after walking in water and conquering fears even there.
Your description is so apt and the pictures are marvelous. I’m right there with you!
Hugs and blessings, mg