My next stop was Sphatik Shilla. A small rock, sitting on the banks of the Mandakini river accompanied by a small shrine dedicated to Rama, marked another spot frequented by Rama, Sita and Lakshmana.
The place where I was staying was next to one of the busier roads in Chitrakoot and it’s constant bustle made me feel as though I needed some quiet. Sphatik Shilla granted me this quiet. The sun bounced off the dreamlike river as it went along its course and I was again reminded of the beauty of the place I was in. The only real noise around emerged from the Sadhu who occasionally would have to shout at a monkey that would try to take his food. I spent some time here reading the Ramayana, before moving onto Kamadgiri.
Kamadgiri, which means ‘the fulfiller of all desires’, is the mountain said to mark the original Chitrakoot. Rama lived here, along with a great many sages, whom he asked to remain in Kamadgiri when he continued moving to the south. Rama told them even though his physical form would move on, his spirit would remain at Kamadgiri for eternity. The auras of these devoted sages are said to still reside in the mountain, and it is these sages, so generous in nature, that grant the wishes of those who come and visit, giving the place its name.
The mandir at the entrance was filled with the incredibly powerful reverence of all those around, who then would embark on the a pradakshina, a circumambulation of a sacred place, of the mountain. It was a 5km walk barefoot. The walk was an experience and it was completed by many in a variety of different ways. Most walked, some cycled, some were on motorbikes, and some would even crawl along all the way, pushing along a small rock or coconut as they went. Not missing an opportunity to capitalise on this mass of people, there were shops all the way around, and in some places could even be found TVs, playing the Ramayana.
Although the mountain itself was fenced off, its elegance was clear. I could imagine many thousands of years ago, people living here, in a peace not found in many places. I only wish I could have spent some time on it, as opposed to only walking around it.
I wondered how many of those selling along the street, did so because they thought being so close to Kamadgiri would grant them all they wanted, and if so, I wondered about what they might wish for. I then, seeing as I was there, asked myself what I would wish for. When travelling I take a good few things with me, for practicality and convenience, but whenever I have to check I have everything I really need, I look for only my passport and wallet, knowing the rest I can do without.
I thought that maybe wishing for something I really wanted was like this. There are a million things I want because they are there, but after reflecting, I knew there was only a few things that I really desired, and they were not all what I thought they would be. I knew that if I had these, the rest wouldn’t really matter. So, after gently asking the mountain for my wishes, I carried on walking, soaking up the energy of Kamadgiri.