Hypnotised in Chitrakoot

In the Rāmāyana, when Rāma arrives in the ‘soul-captivating’ Chitrakoot, he is blown away by its sheer beauty. Sita cannot help but admire the brilliance of the nature around her. It is a place where there are a thousand different types of birds who all sing in harmony with the waterfalls and the wind around them. It reads that the three of them were not at all unhappy at the prospect of being away from the Kingdom, if they could be here. Their agony caused by their exile was overcome by their joy of being in Chitrakoot.

I was looking forward to being blown away by all of this. Realising that at least a few thousand years had passed since the events mentioned in the Rāmāyana, I was prepared to not see too much that was remarkable. Driving into Chitrakoot for the first time, through dusty roads without seeing the animals or the trees that were loved so much by Rāma, Sita and Lakshmana, was slightly disappointing. Comforted, however, by the energy in Rāmghat, which is located on the river Mandakini and is said to have been a place where the three spent time, I spent the evening looking forward to exploring, hoping there was more to be seen.

My first stop was Hanuman Dhara, named after the stream that flows through the cave. I set off in the morning when the sun was shining to see this wonderful sight, but I was greeted by another. Driving up and out of the built up town of Chitrakoot, the term built up being used very loosely, I was exposed to the hills of the Chitrakoot, and the nature that surrounded them. In that moment, I understood what the Rāmayana meant when it talked of the beauty of Chitrakoot.

Living on the Malvern Hills, one would think I would be used to seeing such a sight, but words cannot describe the hills in Chitrakoot. The hills stand strong amongst the gentle landscape, commanding all around them, with such a firm, but such a calm presence that they feel like the guardians of the forest. The sun shines on them from above, illuminating their strength with its light, showing all those around true wonder.

Not really sure I would ever be used to seeing them, but knowing however long I continued to look their brilliance would not fade, I stopped to just appreciate that which stood before me.

Carrying on I reached the foot of the hills housing Hanuman Dhara, and Sita Rasoi, the place where Sita would cook for Rāma and Lakshmana, which was on the top of the hill. Taking my shoes off at the bottom of the hill as is the custom, I began my ascent, barefoot, of the 600 steps to Hanuman Dhara. I reached the small cave after 600 steps and encountered a small shrine dedicated to Hanuman.

Very quickly however, the space filled with others who had also come to see the space. Sitting cross legged on the floor, as if I was back in Hawford, my primary school, in a lesson, we all sat listening to the Sadhus tell the stories of why this space was as special as it was. They explained that it was where Hanuman told Rāma that he had found Sita in Lanka, I will elaborate on this part of the story later. I was again amazed at the life in all those of all ages who flocked to this revered space, keeping the Rāmāyana alive. Leaving the shrine I was greeted by waves of monkeys who always seem to be alive and well in abundance close to shrines for Hanuman. I like to tell myself that it those monkeys that live to guard this space, as they guarded Rama all those years ago.

Ascending further up to the crown of the hill I reached Sita Rasoi, and was able to see all before me. I imagined that the land around me was covered in a wonderful forest as far as could be seen. I imagined hearing only the sound made by birds, the wind and waterfalls. I imagined being with those closest to me. If, in that moment, I experienced anything even slightly close to how Rama felt in those moments in Chitrakoot, then maybe I can start to understand where his happiness came from. Even though Rama had every reason to be angry, to be hurt, to seek revenge, to desire a kingdom, he was content where he was.