The beginning and the end

I set out early to see Rāma Janmabhoomi.

As a result of the very serious ongoing Ayodhya Dispute there was security surrounding the temple. Bags, mobiles, cameras and even watches are not allowed in. So, I decided to head out early in the morning, armed with nothing but a small amount money, to visit the temple.

My early start was rewarded as the queues were short, but I was amazed at the security. There were five separate security searches and armed guards along the way. It was a ten minute walk from the first security post to the the temporary shrine that was there, the last five minutes of which were all restricted by cages. It was a shame that what would have been a wonderful space, was tainted by the violent actions of so many.

The temple itself was a temporary shrine with the icons of Rāma, Sita and I think Hanuman, although it was difficult to tell as you can only see the shrine from a distance of ten metres. There was a sanctity, but also a pain. So many have lost their lives fighting over this space.

Both moved and pleased I had been able to see the temple I headed back to pick up my stuff before returning to Ayodhya.

Yet, on my return the rickshaw driver told me to visit Guptar Ghat. I had read that this was the place where Rāma was said to have immersed himself in the river Saryu before leaving his body. I had tried to find it on my own, without success. Convinced it was just an attempt by the driver to squeeze more money out of me, which it probably was, I said no.

But, either because it was lost in translation or more probably because he ignored me, he took me to the Ghat, and by the time I had realised I decided maybe it was not such a bad idea. Now, I am glad I was taken there. It has been the highlight of my trip so far.

The Ghat was humble. There was a small, ornate mandir by its side, along with a few roadside stalls selling chai. Seated on the modest river Saryu, it really was beautiful. The peace was refreshing, and the surrounding stillness filled me with content. It is interesting that the place of Rāma’s birth has been so fiercely fought for, yet the place marking the end of his life seems forgotten. Whatever the reason, I am grateful that I was drawn, as if by fate, to that riverside.