And so it begins – Ayodhya

I am officially starting my Trail of Rama in Ayodhya, the city where Rāma was born, where he grew up and experienced an idyllic childhood, and the one he had to leave behind when sent into exile.

Ayodhya contrasts starkly to Varanasi. Although both are renowned for their spiritual side, they could not be more different.

Whilst Varanasi is the hare, ever moving and perhaps too aware of its importance, Ayodhya is the tortoise. Although some of the streets are still busy, the city is gentle.

I asked to go to Rāma Janmabhoomi, the site where Rāma is said to have been born, but was instead taken to Hanuman Garhi, after being told the vehicle couldn’t get to the where I wanted to go, but that I would find it on my way. Hanuman Garhi is one the most popular Hanuman temples in India, and I thought it fitting that I would start my journey by paying my respects to Hanuman, the embodiment of devotion to Rāma.

The temple was beautiful. It is seventy steps up and when one enters the main complex shouts of ‘Hanumana ki Jai!’, can be heard reverberating around, like a Mexican wave of sound. All around the temple are enchanting illustrations of his feats of brilliance during the Rāmāyana, and in the air could be felt a joyful reverence of Hanuman.

While this temple was very much buzzing, the next one I visited, Kanak Bhavan, dedicated to Rāma and Sita, was tranquil. It is interesting how differently the two figures are seen and worshiped. The Rāmāyana was sung and its sound filled the air whilst the ever playful monkeys scaled the temple walls. I love the idea that it was an army of monkeys that helped Rāma find Sita, and that it is monkeys that fill the temples dedicated to him.

After spending some time here I continued walking and found a few smaller temples. One was dedicated to Dasaratha, the father of Rāma who died from the grief of sending his son into exile. I walked in and its vibrancy struck me. Unable to resist I started to take photos. One of the priests looked at me and so to check I was not causing offence I asked him if it was okay.

‘Teek hai,’ he replied, okay.

He came up to me. His face was was peaceful, his eyes quiet, and his smile full of warmth.

“Where are you from?’ he asked in Hindi.

‘England,’ I replied, in my thickest Indian accent.

He smiled even more and asked ‘what brings you here?’

I took out my copy of the Rāmāyana and showed him. He looked at me, and hugged me.

It was only at this point that I was able to experience how much the Rāmāyana, what many would call myth, but these people would call fact, means to those who visit, and live amongst these temples. Nothing much remains materially that indicated the existence of a Kingdom many thousands of years old, but this is unsurprising.

However, what is lacking materially, is there in abundance in spirit. The Rāmāyana, although thousands of years old, is very much alive and well, perhaps more so in those quiet corners of Ayodhya, than in its busiest streets.

The Rāmāyana speaks of Ayodhya as a city populated by the wise who are endowed with good qualities and devoted to truth. Although fewer in number than there may have once been, it is clear that these people are alive and well in the city of Ayodhya today.

I then wondered towards Rāma Janmabhoomi, but it was around 1pm and with the queues at their longest, I decided to head back, and try again in the morning.