A few precious moments in the City of Light

In the Ramayana there is a line which reads; ‘The sky can be compared only to the sky, and the sea only to the sea’.

In this same thought, Varanasi can be compared only to Varanasi.

It is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities after all, and is home to over 23,000 temples and visited by over 20 million people each year. It a religious centre for not only Hinduism, but for Buddhism and Jainism too. Sacred as it was said to be founded by Lord Shiva himself, Varanasi is for many one of the most spiritual places in the world.

Knowing this, I was not sure what to expect when I entered Varanasi, but I know I wasn’t expecting what I saw. I saw a city whose streets are full of life. These streets are filled with all types of vehicles. Motorcycles, 4x4s, Auto rickshaws and bicycles all seem to be so good at driving badly, that watching them all move in unison as they do, down the wrong sides of the road pushing through gaps that don’t seem to exist, is strangely satisfying.

 

 

The people weave seamlessly through this never ending traffic as though it was never there, their ears taking no notice of the car horns, which I really can’t stress enough are so very loud.

They are filled with locals who, upon spotting me, would energetically persuade me to spend some money in their shops. They are filled with auto rickshaw drivers who tried to convince me that the rate they are giving me is really the best they can do, even though we both know it’s 10 times the normal fare, and pundits who were only too keen to lead me to temples and shrines so I could experience the wealth of spirituality that exists in the city, for a price of course. They are filled with music and shops and shrines in equal number. They are filled with energy, darkness and light.

Cows lie sleeping in the middle of the roads, ignoring the chaos unfurling around them and stray dogs seem to always be barking, as if trying to talk to each other over the pervading noise of cars.

Yet, amongst all of the noise, the tricks and ill intent, the rubbish and the sometimes hostile nature of the city, it is special, and I can’t quite explain to you why.

But, there have been a few precious moments during my short visit where I have felt why. Glancing for the first time, the beauty of the Ganga from the ghats, seeing puja’s from the river attended by thousands, watching the sunset from the banks of the Ganga, or experiencing, if only for a few seconds, the wonder of the shrine at the Viswanath Temple.

Although the city can seem to lack a purity that one would associate with a spiritual capital of the world, these moments did not. They will remain with me long after I have forgotten about any challenges I faced here.

Maybe it’s in search of these moments, that people are drawn to this city of light.